Weiss Automatic Issue Field Watch

Weiss Automatic Issue Field Watch


Weiss Automatic Issue Field Watch Watch Releases


Weiss Watch Company, one of the unfortunately too few American watch companies, was founded in 2013 in Los Angeles, CA, by watchmaker Cameron Weiss. From their initial offering, a 42mm manual-wind watch known as the Weiss Standard Issue Field watch, to their latest release, Weiss have strived to produce watches which are progressively more American. Following in this mission, Weiss have just released the 38mm Automatic Issue Field Watch, the brand’s first foray into automatic watches and yet another piece which is assembled entirely in the brand’s Los Angeles, CA, headquarters using Swiss and American parts. Weiss has previously offered pretty compelling value propositions, but it seems that pushing for more and more American-made parts has also pushed the price up.


Weiss Automatic Issue Field Watch Watch Releases


Looking at the new model, the most obvious change is the size of the case, coming in at 38mm (not including the crown) which is down from the brand’s previous offerings which have all been 42mm in width. In addition to a smaller case, the Weiss Automatic Issue Field watch also features a new movement for the brand. The Cal 2100, which is based on the Swiss Eterna Caliber 39, is produced from over 150 Swiss parts as well as American components and is assembled and decorated by Weiss in the United States. The new movement is a time-only, self-winding, 28,800 beats/hour, hacking, Incabloc-protected caliber with 65 hours of power reserve.


Weiss Automatic Issue Field Watch Watch Releases


In terms of styling, the new watch is pretty similar in design to all of Weiss’s pieces. The straightforward time only design with a seconds sub-dial at nine o’clock and a fairly standard field watch dial and hands make for a highly legible setup which the brand has stuck to through their various iterations. The hands, which are a narrower but still vintage-inspired set, are also new and different from previous models and still sport Super-LumiNova. The watch comes with a familiar olive green 20mm Cordura strap to complete the pseudo military look.


Weiss Automatic Issue Field Watch Watch Releases



Weiss Automatic Issue Field Watch Watch Releases


In all, this is an interesting update to the Weiss range. The change to a 38mm size may make the watch more suitable for those with smaller wrists (and maybe even ladies) or people who prefer a more vintage look. The new automatic movement also provides a useful update for fans of the maker who aren’t interesting in winding their watch every couple of days. With their new movement, Weiss are continuing to challenge what it means to be “American made.” aBlogtoWatch contributor Aaron Stark wrote an article on his Watch Ponder blog here discussing Weiss and what American-made means in greater depth.

While the movement is completely assembled, decorated, adjusted, and cased here in the United States, the inclusion of a majority of Swiss components prevents the “Made in the USA” label from being applied because it requires “all or virtually all” of a product’s components to be American. However, this new Weiss Automatic Issue Field watch represents a further step in the right direction for American watch making, and Weiss is certainly offering the most USA-made watches available for the price.


Weiss Automatic Issue Field Watch Watch Releases



Weiss Automatic Issue Field Watch Watch Releases


The Weiss Automatic Issue Field Watch is available in three distinct colors – white or black dial with a green Cordura canvas strap retailing at $1,850, and a new blue dial with natural Horween Shell Cordovan strap retailing for $1,995. Again, that might seem like a lot of money but you’ve got to pay a premium for American-made these days. weisswatchcompany.com

Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined Watch

Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined Watch


Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined Watch Watch Releases


Back in 2013, Chopard announced the launch of their Fairmined Project, an initiative that aims to utilize ethically sourced Fairmined Gold in partnership with the South American NGO Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) to pioneer a new “Journey to Sustainable Luxury.” The first watch to use this type of gold was the Chopard L.U.C Tourbillon Qualite Fleurier, which we covered back at Baselworld 2014. For Baselworld 2017, Chopard is introducing another Fairmined model to their growing L.U.C collection, the Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined watch in a limited edition of 250 pieces. Let’s take a look at how it combines high-end finishing, interesting materials, and the attention to detail Chopard’s L.U.C line is known for.


Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined Watch Watch Releases


Chopard explains that the Fairmined Project serves as an effort to help support miners who extract the raw materials used in these watches. This is also reflected in a few aesthetic touches like the dial texture, which is inspired by the raw composition of gold nuggets extracted from mines. Besides paying a fair, premium price for these raw materials, Chopard also ensures that resources are reinvested into community projects to improve living conditions within these small-scale mining communities. Additionally, small-scale operations such as these also help minimize the environmental impact that is often associated with larger, less environmentally conscious mining efforts. At the very least, these talking points give the Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined watch an added shot of character and purpose.


Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined Watch Watch Releases


The dial of the Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined has a deep, slate gray color and a rather mesmerizing sunburst effect that’s even more striking in contrast to the rose gold hands and markers. The hour, minute, and seconds hands are also crafted out of the same Fairmined 18-carat rose gold and feature the fluid L.U.C signature shape that flows well with the indexes. Interestingly enough, Chopard also decided on incorporating an offset seconds subdial, which is a departure from the previous iteration of the L.U.C XPS Fairmined and several other models in the lineup. While it’s always hard to tell from press images alone, I am interested to see the color variation and texture the dial exhibits as it reacts to different angles and lighting situations.


Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined Watch Watch Releases



Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined Watch Watch Releases


The well-proportioned 40mm case exhibits the same kind of attention to detail and features a variety of polished and vertically brushed surfaces along the top and edges. Like the dial, I imagine this case really should be seen in person in order to appreciate the effect of the contrast finishing, as we expect Chopard to do a good job with that. At just 7.2mm thick, the Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined should wear comfortably since the lugs also appear to have a well-curved, wrist-hugging shape to them.

An interesting touch Chopard also went for is an offset crown at 4 o’clock, which creates an intriguing kind of symmetry with the offset seconds subdial at 7 o’clock. Water-resistance is 30 meters and the watch is, of course, fitted with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal up front and an exhibition case back. Chopard also includes a hand-sewn alligator strap dyed with plant-based pigments and paired with a matching 18-carat rose gold pin buckle.


Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined Watch Watch Releases



Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined Watch Watch Releases


Even considering all of the interesting touches Chopard put into the case and dial, I find the movement and its finishing to be the most impressive aspect of the Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined watch. Perhaps aided by my fondness for micro-rotors, I find the finishing on the COSC-certified L.U.C Calibre 96.09-L to be first-class in every way, and that’s coming from someone who normally isn’t overly fussy about the minutiae of movement finishing. It’s Fleurier Quality Foundation-certified, delivers 65 hours of power reserve, and operates at 28,800vph (4Hz). The gold tones are echoed in the movement as well, and the bridges are adorned with a deep Côtes de Genève motif that results in a rather striking look for a watch that follows such understated design language.


Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined Watch Watch Releases



Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined Watch Watch Releases


Seeing Chopard put so much thought and care into what is a functionally very simple watch is something that I find exciting in many ways. While the design is “minimalist,” everything from the case finishing to the dial texture renders the final product anything but plain. Chopard’s commitment to expanding the Fairmined Project while raising awareness for sustainable mining practices, fair worker wages, and environmental responsibility further provides the wearer with a feel-good story to go with a nice-looking watch. Price for the 250-piece limited Chopard L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined watch is $18,480chopard.com

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On

the past five or so years, I have been watching the development of Nomos with great interest. Nomos was established in 1990 and so it is fast approaching its 30the anniversary now. In the past couple of years, the German brand has slowly but surely not just expanded its collections but also developed its own movement. Now, for Baselworld 2017, we see the new Nomos Ahoi Neomatik which is the culmination of these efforts on both fronts, and we had the chance to handle these watches at the show in red, blue, black, and white dial options. Interestingly, when looking at previous Ahoi watches, the new line shrinks in case size to now house the in-house DUW 3001 caliber that Nomos introduced back in 2015.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

The Nomos Ahoi is one of Nomos’ newer collections. It was introduced in 2013 as their dive watch collection. Unlike other Nomos watches, it has luminous hands and markers, a screw-down crown, a beefier case, and higher water-resistance of 200 meters. Neomatik, on the other hand, refers to Nomos’ watches that are powered by their in-house DUW 3001 movement. So in the case of the Nomos Ahoi Neomatik, it refers to their sporty Ahoi watches fitted with their DUW 3001 movement.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

That said, the Nomos Ahoi Neomatik is markedly different from the earlier Nomos Ahoi watches. There are four new Nomos Ahoi Neomatik models in total, and while they are all made out of stainless steel, the case size is actually smaller. The earlier Ahoi models were 40mm wide and around 10.6mm thick, but these new Ahoi Neomatik watches are just 36.3mm wide and 9.55mm thick. This means they are significantly smaller than their predecessors. However, because of their long lugs and beefier case construction, they do not wear as small as their case dimensions would suggest. On the wrist, they could be mistaken for 38mm watches.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Like the earlier Ahoi watches, the new Nomos Ahoi Neomatik watches have a water resistance of 200 meters, which makes them suitable for recreational diving. To ensure water-resistance, the Ahoi Neomatik has a screw-down crown protected by very subtle crown guards. The case back is see-through sapphire, which is a nice touch, because it is not very often that you see dive watches with display case backs. Plus, with the display case back, owners can more easily appreciate and admire the in-house DUW 3001 movement within (more on the movement later). The watches also come with a textile strap, which will hold up to water better than the usual shell cordovan straps that most Nomos watches have. The textile strap feels nice on the skin and, along with the smaller case size, really contributes to the wearing comfort of these new watches.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

The Nomos Ahoi Neomatik has a Bauhaus dial design that Nomos watches are so famous and well-loved for. It is clean, simple, and highly legible. But since this is a watch that has been designed to go diving, it has slightly thicker hands that are filled with luminescence material. There are tiny lume markers at each hour marker too. All four models will have a bright orange seconds hand in the running seconds sub-dial. I think sometimes people find Nomos watches to look a little too inoffensive or demure, so even the most subtle design elements like these add a little bit of an edge (that word might be too much) to these minimalist and now smaller watches.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

There will be four dial colors on offer here. The first two will be familiar to readers – Silver and Atlantic Blue. But there’s also two new dial colors here called “Signalblau” and “Signalrot.” The former is a very bright, almost neon, blue; and the later is a very bright red. I like these two new colors very much. Under direct light, the new Signalblau and Signalrot almost look as if they are glowing, but under dimmer light conditions, they take on a darker more somber hue. Signalblau is probably the more versatile of the two, but there’s no doubt in my mind that Signalrot is the more fun color and watch to wear. The Silver and Atlantic Blue models are nice too. The Silver is arguably the most classic, while Atlantic Blue appears dark blue under direct light and looks almost black from certain angles.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

One of the highlights of these Nomos Ahoi Neomatik watches is the DUW 3001 movement within. This movement is the result of many years of research and over €15 million in development costs. It is a movement developed entirely by Nomos and uses Nomos’ own “Swing System” escapement. In addition, it is remarkably thin for an automatic movement with a full-rotor, just 3.2mm in total height. The movement has a third-quarter plate that stays faithful to Glashütte watchmaking traditions, and all rotating components are fitted into only 1mm of space between the base plate and the three-quarter plate. Despite its slim dimensions, it has a 3Hz beat rate and power reserve is 42 hours. All in all, the DUW 3001 remains a significant achievement for Nomos and an essential component when it comes to watches like these that carry a relatively high $4,000+ price point.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

As I mentioned earlier, the DUW 3001 movement is visible through the display case back and it is handsomely finished – for a watch at its price. There’s perlage on the base plate, blued screw, machined beveled edges on the three-quarter plate and balance bridge, and also Côtes de Genève on the three-quarter plate and on the partially skeletonized rotor. And although Nomos doesn’t send its movements for COSC certification, we were told that all movements are regulated to run within COSC specifications.

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Watches In 4 Colorways Hands-On Hands-On

Nomos has always done things in their own way, and the new Nomos Ahoi Neomatik is further evidence of that. It is, for all intents and purposes, a dive watch, but one that is done in the immutable style of Nomos. It may have dive watch specifications, but it doesn’t sacrifice any of the wearability, elegance, and quirkiness that we have come to associate with the brand. With one look at it, there’s no doubting that it is a Nomos. The new Nomos Ahoi Neomatik is priced at $4,020 for the Silver dial, and $4,120 for the Atlantik, Signalblau, and Signalrot dials. nomos-glashuette.com